11 Nov   Herculaneum  11 Nov
  Southern Italy & Sicily  
Train to Taormina   12 Nov  12 Nov 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Naples
11 Nov 2014
Naples    11 Nov 2014
  Naples, Italy   
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Today we jump on the Circumvesuviana train to go to Naples. After the hour train ride from Sorrento we wander Naples’ centro storico and port, stopping at the Duomo (closed), the Castel Nuovo (closed), and the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (partially closed). I know, I should have planned better.

The museum’s Greek and Roman sculptures are wonderful and worth the admission. On the other hand, presentation is uninspired; like Pompeii the signage is nonexistent; the building is threadbare; and the gallery closures are due not to remodelling but a lack of staff.

Naples is an old city and it looks it. The architecture has lots of detail, color and variety and the historical centre is scaled for people, not cars, which gives it an intimate feel.

Problem is, Naples has a lot of people, cars, and mopeds, and they all share the barely one-car-wide streets. I'm not exaggerating: Naples’ streets are  so narrow that many apartments never see sunlight. As a result, walking and driving look to be carefully choreographed experiences.

Naples does not draw a lot of tourists. It has a reputation for having organized crime and a lot of trash. One brief visit doesn't allow me to say anything about crime but I can say that Naples doesn't appear any dirtier than other big cities I’ve visited. The Cicumvesuviana train has a reputation for pick-pockets but the only nefarious activity I observed is a fellow tagging a window and some noisy drunk kids.

What will stick in my mind are the dark, narrow streets with laundry lines strung between buildings; the passionate locals socializing on the streets and piazzas; and the sight of men (and women) walking down the street, arm in arm, talking.

 
 
 
 
Stairs from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
 
Stairs from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
 
Stairs from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
Stairs from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
 
Stairs from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
 
Stairs from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
Road from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
 
Road from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
 
Road from city center to harbour  
 
 
 
Naples museum  
 
 
 
 
Naples museum  
 
 
 
 
Naples museum  
 
 
 
 11 Nov   Herculaneum  11 Nov
  Southern Italy & Sicily  
Train to Taormina   12 Nov  12 Nov